Shimshal valley (upper Hunza)

Shimshal is a large Wakhi-speaking village supported by vast herds of sheep, goats and yaks that are moved up and down the valley with the seasons. These traditional migrations provide the basis for some of Gojal’s most exquisite trekking. Remote Shimshal was closed to visitors until 1986, after which increasing numbers of adventurers braved the mountain trail through the narrow Shimshal gorge. It was from upper Shimshal, even as late as the 1890s, that raiders harried caravans heading to Kashmir. In 2003 a jeep road was inaugurated that finally linked Shimshal village to the KKH.

The road to Shimshal leaves the KKH at the snout of the Batura Glacier, 6km north of Passu. It crosses the Hunza River on a suspension bridge and then enters the narrow gorge of the lower Shimshal River; a more ominous gateway would be hard to imagine. After about an hour of negotiating a shifting, cliff-hugging jeep track and crossing a couple of daunting bridges you arrive at Dut, a reafforested oasis with no perman­ent settlement but a few huts for shepherds and road workers. Soon after Dut the valley opens out, closes in again, and glaciers approach the road. It’s hard to picture more awe-inspiring and stark scenery. Flowing off the lofty white mass of Destaghil Sar (7885m), Mulungutti Glacier ­descends right to the road.

Shimshal is made up of three villages: Aminabad, Shimshal and Khizarabad. Aminabad is announced by vast fields of stones hemmed in by drystone walls, and fortress-like houses of stone and mud. As you approach Shimshal look for a glimpse of Adver Sar (6400m), also known as Shimshal Whitehorn. Shimshal has hydroelectricity for five months of the year (when the water isn’t frozen), and although there is a general store with small stocks of biscuits, noodles, sugar, salt, milk, tea and rice etc, it would be wise to be self-sufficient with trekking needs.